Anselm Kiefer’s World of Devastation Is Captured in the Documentary Over Your Cities Grass Will Gro

If Pompeii hadn’t been excavated, if the towns and villages on the Western Front hadn’t been rebuilt after World War I, and if the site of the World Trade Center had been left as it was after 9/11, they might partially resemble the ruins Anselm Kiefer constructed in the South of France. Moving from Germany in 1993, Kiefer took over the 35 hectares of the industrial wasteland La Ribaute, near Barjac, and turned the atelier into a sprawling Gesamtkunstwerk, or “total work of art,” consisting of 47 buildings, an amphitheater, bridges, caves, an underground labyrinth that invoke the guts of the Pyramids or the gas chambers of the Nazi concentration camps. In the concrete rooms, he installed artworks — twisted strips of metallic film, a dormitory cast in lead, a child’s garment decorated with shards of glass, and other totems of catastrophe.

Kiefer has since moved on to another studio in Paris, taking “110 trucks” of the art with him, but La Ribaute remains. He and his small team of workmen were filmed in their labors by the British director Sophie Fiennes, whose mesmerizing Cinema Scope documentary “Over Your Cities Grass Will Grow” appeared at the Cannes Film Festival last year. Playing at Film Forum in New York from August 10-23, it doubles as a post-biblical, post-apocalyptic prophesy about the eventual fate of the earth and a self-reflexive meditation on the artistic process. Reflecting Kiefer’s canvases, it is etched in the colors of lead, earth, ash, charcoals, blacks, and discolored whites.

Occasionally, a splash of blue — that of industrial drums — obtrudes, or the muted golds and greens of the surrounding foliage. Kiefer comments in the film that he’s pleased vegetation is reclaiming La Ribaute, but this scarcely admits a return to the Arcadian, as did an unrelated exhibition bearing the same name as the film that ran at London’s Hidde Van Seggelen Gallery this spring, featuring work by Piranesi, Friedrich, Brouwn, Janssens, Almarcegui, and others. In contrast, Kiefer’s studio is a theme park dedicated to the notions of destruction, decay, annulment, and eventual absence.

“Over Your Cities” begins wordlessly as the disembodied camera glides up, down, along, and around the eerie subterranean passageways — made of corrugated iron and cement, some interspersed with stalagmite-like columns — to the sound of Jörg Widmann and György Ligeti’s spectral music. Shards of pottery and glass, broken slabs of concrete and rocks proliferate. After nearly 20 minutes of immersion in this dead zone, Kiefer and his workmen appear — pumping water, making a plaster-like substance, smelting ore. Among the artworks they make in the film are an installation suspending miniature lead battleships (a tribute to Céline’s novel “Journey to the End of the Night”) and a painting of the Ardèche forest, the boles stripped bare and stained with ground cement. The latter work is reminiscent of Kiefer’s great “Varus” (1976),Cheap Ed hardy bags, which deals with the birth and growth of German national consciousness via its inscription of the victory over the Romans in the Battle of the Teutoburg Forest in 9 AD — Germany, year zero. Anselm’s Teutonic forests, influenced by Altdorfer and Friedrich, augur the Nazi horror.

At the center of the film, there’s a statically shot interview, conducted in La Ribaute’s library, between Kiefer and a German journalist who prompts the artist to ruminate on his ideas. Though we learn little about the historical or nostalgic influences on the Gesamtkunstwerk, Kiefer does refer to “The Odyssey,” the Kabbala (in reference to broken vessels), and Heidegger’s belief that boredom is useful in bringing about consciousness of one’s existence. Kiefer strongly believes in the importance of emptiness as a precondition for creating. “I fundamentally believe that through my work I can fill an empty room created in my childhood,” he says. “The space has not been filled yet things fall into it and take effect.”

Through his work, Kiefer has been a provocative and consistent critic of the Third Reich, and there are enough installations and imagery at La Ribaute to have prompted a detailed discussion of Nazi atrocities and the devastation of war — fabricated dragons’ teeth adorn some of the artworks, the teetering concrete towers suggest Dresden and Berlin after the Allied bombing (as well as Ground Zero). When Kiefer and the workmen drop sheets of plate glass on the floor of an installation room, or strew glass around a warehouse, it’s impossible not to think of Kristallnacht. Kiefer has a crane mount one of his massive trademark lead books onto a huge canvas; other books are burned — connoting the Nazi repression and the death of knowledge.

Regrettably, Kiefer doesn’t engage with this. Instead, he speaks about man’s origins as a sea creature who longs to go “back to our happy, unconscious being as a single cell in the ocean,” and about scientific theories such as the Big Bang describing “our lack of knowledge. They describe our ignorance…. All the scientific and technological progress only tells me how incomplete I am and that I know nothing…. How inhuman I am, and how inhuman humans are.” Well, not entirely. Shortly after he delivers this humbling peroration, two small boys, the artist’s sons, enter the frame, playfully scooting behind their father.

After the interview, Fiennes returns to the construction outside at La Ribaute. Kiefer and one of his workers pour molten metal, like so much lava, down a small hill of earth. A huge mechanical drill bores holes in the earth that they fill with cement and plant with metal rods — one thinks of what might have lain under the Nazi Party rally grounds designed by Albert Speer — and erect one of many skeletal towers made from concrete modules. In one shot, a cement staircase rises for a few steps and then, having broken, stops abruptly. Whither did it lead?

Kiefer says the towers were influenced by the Jewish folkloric figure of Adam’s demonic first wife, Lilith, who was expelled by him from Paradise and dwelled in abandoned ruins, threatening that “over your cities grass will grow.” “I think that’s fantastic,” he remarks, sweeping the devastated past historical into the ghost towns of the future.

Watch clips from “Over Your Cities Grass Will Grow” below:

ONE: Raising the Painting

 

TWO: The Towers
 

 

THREE: Melting Lead  

 

Perfume’s timelessness appeals to de la Renta

NEW YORK Oscar de la Renta takes longer to create that small, fits-in-your-hand bottle of perfume than one of his elaborate embellished ballgowns. It’s just the nature of the business.

The process is similar, starting with an inspiration that comes from the gut, quality materials and fine workmanship, but de la Renta says he’ll continue tinkering with a perfume until he’s fully satisfied. There would be no point in rushing when he has the luxury of time, he explains.

While de la Renta takes care to say that even with his clothing designs, he doesn’t follow or set, for that matter the “trends,” he still operates on the fashion calendar that dictates the grinding, grueling pace of five collections a year. (Add to that the children’s line the company just announced it’s launching.) There is always a hunger for “new” and a need to be relevant in the moment, he observes.

In the beauty business, however, there aren’t the same demands, so even though the hypothetical canvas is so much smaller, the process has few restrictions other than to create something lovely and lasting. “Fragrance I look at in a different way than fashion,” de la Renta says. “It’s so unbelievably intimate in a person’s life. When you discover the right one, it’s like getting married: You don’t change on a whim.”

His newest is Live in Love, a classic scent with notes of ginger, orchid, hyacinth, muguet and jasmine, set against a base of white woods and musk.

The house bought back its fragrance licenses three years ago (the licenses were owned by another company at the time) to give the perfumes more of a synergy with its fashion reputation as a top-tier label, explains Alex Bolen, company CEO (as well as de la Renta’s son-in-law). Each of the seven scents currently in production has to be elegance and luxury in a bottle, Bolen says.

De la Renta jumps in at this point in a joint interview to note that, however beautiful the bottle may be, it won’t sell a perfume. Neither will the packaging, name or ad campaign. The juice has to connect to the wearer on a much deeper level, he says, so much so that it becomes part of her identity.

“You shouldn’t change your fragrance when you don’t smell it anymore. That’s the wrong way to think about it. You shouldn’t be able to notice it. … That’s when a fragrance is a true success.”

Still, he says, he likes the stories of how the newest name and campaign evolved.

For the name, de la Renta was in his workroom in the heat of the summer and noticed the tattoo on the arm of one of the employees: Live in Love. “It was so obvious,wholesale Burberry, so extraordinary. It’s what I wanted to say. No one had used it, which was surprising, but that’s the secret of life sometimes the answer is so obvious.”

When it came time to introduce the fragrance to the public, he wanted to find the right spokesmodel. He laid out print ads of all the competition, stripped off the names, and took a hard look at whose image he could choose to stand out from the crowd. He saw only one that he wanted.

Back in the 1950s and `60s when de la Renta was starting out, the trend wasn’t celebrities; every designer who was anyone used an illustration of the chicest, most glamorous woman. That’s who he wanted again and that’s the raven-haired, pen-and-ink “model” who looks back at you underneath the tagline, “The new fragrance for women created by a man who adores them.”

He explains, “I want you to remember the fragrance, not be able to identify Penelope Cruz.”

This isn’t de la Renta being nostalgic for the good old days, though. In addition to the new children’s line and the presentation of his bold, colorful pre-fall collection this week, de la Renta is also the one who came up with the idea for a just-opened exhibit about the artist Joaquin Sorolla y Bastida at the Queen Sofia Spanish Institute in New York.

At age 79, retirement is a dirty word. He likes to quote a friend who says, “to rest is to rust.”

How Gaga and Bieber could win the White House

NEW YORK (TheWrap.com) With Twitter becoming indispensable for news and politics, the Washington Post has climbed aboard the speeding train, launching a new metric for tracking presidential candidates — @MentionMachine.

@MentionMachine monitors Twitter and other media outlets for the number of times a candidate is mentioned, thus tracking his or her position in the national conversation. In other words,wholesale Ed hardy belts, forget about the antiquated metrics like polling or endorsements and go straight to the source.

And if Twitter endorses a Lady Gaga and Justin Bieber ticket? So be it.

In introducing the new app, the Post showcases all the ways it can be used to evaluate how engaged readers are with certain candidates.

“Growth in number of legitimate followers or a high recurrence of retweets are both indicative of growing grass-roots support,” the Post notes. “A spike in the number of times a candidate is mentioned on Twitter might signal an event that could alter a campaign.”

How can the reader see whether a candidates is experiencing a surge of support? There’s a toolbar on its campaign coverage page to show “scores” for each candidate, with each score representing the number of times that candidate was mentioned on Twitter in the past week.

One can also go in depth on a specific candidate, looking at the progression of mentions over different time periods. And what good would it be without the ability to compare candidates?

This is not the first time the Post has put some of its eggs in the social media basket. It launched the “Social Reader” for the revamped Facebook, enabling users to read their post stories from their profile rather than having to hop over to the Post’s site.

With its parent company coming off a ghastly fiscal year and an “uneasy” newsroom, these forward-looking measures have to help, right?

At the very least, they could signal progress. With eight out of the top 10 most followed on Twitter being women, the era of a female president may be just around the corner.

Jennifer Hudson credits dead brother for comeback

Jennifer Hudson surprised many when, just months after a family tragedy that saw her mother, brother and nephew murdered,Replica Ed hardy Kids, she returned to the stage to sing the Star-Spangled Banner at Super Bowl XLIII.

But as the “Dreamgirls” star and former “American Idol” favorite sees it, she didn’t have a choice — her murdered brother wouldn’t have it any other way.

Hudson appears on the January 8 edition of NBC’s “Dateline” to discuss the tragedy, among other topics, and tells the show’s Lester Holt that she heard her brother Jason’s voice, which urged her to undertake the comeback performance.

“I felt as though I had to,” Hudson tells Holt. “ust the same as I hear my mother’s voice in my head, I can hear my brother’s voice in my head. And he– they, like, everybody, it’s like, is she ever gonna sing again? Is she gonna– you know? And what was I gonna say to that– I could hear him, like, ‘Jennifer–’ he would always say, ‘Knock it off, Jenny,’ if I was cryin’ about somethin’ or if I was upset, discouraged, mad, ‘Jenny, knock it off.’ That’s what I hear in my head. And it’s like, ‘Okay, well, what they want me to do? I can either just sit here and mope around, or do what I know that would make them proud.’ And that’s what I did.”

During the interview, Hudson also reveals how she would have been on the scene at the time of the murders were it not for her fiance, professional wrestler David Otunga.

“I remember it like yesterday,” Hudson recalls. “I was literally pickin’ up my bags to walk out the door to go to my mother’s house. And he called me, like, ‘Can you come out here instead of going, you know?’ And I was like, ‘Okay, sure.’ And that one decision, that one thing, I wouldn’t be sittin’ here.”

Hudson’s mother, Darnell Donerson, along with her brother Jason, were found shot to death in Donerson’s Chicago home on October 24, 2008; Donerson was 57, and Jason 29. After a search, Hudson’s 7-year-old nephew, Julian King, was found in a parked car, after dying of what the medical examiner’s office determined to be multiple gunshot wounds. William Balfour, the estranged husband of Hudson’s sister Julia, pleaded not guilty to the murders and awaits trial in February.

Oracle miss sparks Wall St fears of spending cuts

(Reuters) Oracle Corp’s dismal quarterly results sent shock waves across the technology sector as investors feared they may have overestimated the resilience of corporate tech spending in a deteriorating global economy.

The first earnings miss in a decade from Oracle, whose fiscal second quarter ended on November 30, drove its shares down more than 11 percent on Wednesday, destroying about $20 billion of market value. The shortfall from the No. 3 software maker also hit shares of many other technology companies, with VMware Inc, NetSuite Inc, and SAP among those suffering the biggest losses.

“Is this a preliminary example of what we could expect in January from Microsoft and other players? It raises an eyebrow that things may not be as hunky dory as we’ve been led to believe in terms of IT spending,” said Daniel Morgan, a portfolio manager at Synovus Securities in Atlanta.

The troubles at Oracle follow ominous reports from big tech names including Hewlett-Packard Co, Intel Corp and Texas Instruments Inc.

The disconcerting news on Tuesday was not limited to Silicon Valley, with U.S. industrial conglomerate Emerson Electric Co reporting a drop in orders for equipment used in big data centers. Emerson shares fell 5.4 percent to $46.97.

“Overall, we have seen in the last 60 days … a significant weakness in this whole electronics space,” said Emerson Chief Executive David Farr. “I don’t see that changing for the time being.”

The fourth quarter is the crucial period of the year for many technology companies because corporations tend to spend most heavily on information technology during that time in what is known as a year-end “budget flush.”

Oracle’s disappointing results could signal that companies won’t spend all the money that they still have budgeted for 2011 technology projects, said Howard Anderson, a lecturer at MIT’s Sloan School of Business, who regularly talks to CEOs of top-tier corporations.

“Confidence is not there,” he said. “We have a kind of rolling recession.”

Oracle’s quarter ended in November, but investors worried that the decline in business confidence could signal more troubles for peers whose quarters end in December. That includes arch rival SAP AG.

“The majority of deals in the fourth quarter are traditionally closed in the last two weeks of the quarter, so the delay of Oracle’s deals is a negative cross read for SAP,” said Silvia Quandt analyst Michael Busse.

SAP CEO Bill McDermott declined to comment on his business, saying the company was in a quiet period.

A slowing in tech spending would be troubling for the U.S. economy, which has had few bright spots in recent years.

“Since the technical end of the recession (in June 2009) we’ve been seeing double-digit growth in investment in technology. If Oracle is the canary in the coalmine, that would be something to worry about,” said Michael Goodman, director of economic and public policy research at the University of Massachusetts at Dartmouth.

“There’s a lot of concern about what the immediate future holds, so this may just be customers putting off investments they want to make until they feel like they have a better handle on what the future looks like,” Goodman said.

MIXED SIGNALS

U.S. companies have been sending mixed signals about their spending plans for 2012. A survey released last week by the Business Roundtable found that 16 percent of CEOs of large U.S. companies planned to cut their capital spending over the next six months, up from 13 percent who had planned cuts in the third quarter.

But other data released on Wednesday by the Equipment Leasing and Finance Association showed U.S. businesses signed up for $6.2 billion in loans, leases and lines of credit to fund capital expenditures in November, a 38 percent increase from the month a year ago.

Oracle’s stock fell $3.40 to $25.77, its lowest close since August, making it the biggest loser in the Standard & Poor’s 500 index. It was the biggest one-day percentage drop in the stock since March 4, 2002, when Oracle last surprised investors with an earnings warning.

CEO and co-founder Larry Ellison, the company’s biggest shareholder,wholesale Burberry kids, lost more than $3.8 billion on Wednesday as the stock plunged, based on his holdings published in Oracle’s annual proxy filing.

The declines accounted for about 16 points of the 27.6 point drop in the S&P 1500 Software index, which suffered a 4.5 percent drop in market cap to about $511 billion. The drop in Oracle shares represents 68 percent of the decline in total market cap for the index.

(Reporting by Sayantani Ghosh in Bangalore, Maria Sheahan, Christoph Steitz and Marilyn Gerlach in Frankfurt and Nicola Leske, David Gaffen, Ryan Vlastelica and Nick Zieminski in New York; Editing by Richard Chang)

Recessionista Locket Up! - UsMagazine.com

The designers at Emily Elizabeth Jewelry aren’t inspired by Audrey Hepburn’s style or Ashley, Vanessa or Madonna…this company was inspired by the locket necklace Ruth Gordon gave Mia Farrow in the film Rosemary’s Baby. This classic piece is actually chicer and less smelly than the iconic tanis root. Available for $60, it comes in colors like yellow, pink, green or white gold. It’s perfect for keeping someone close (or not!).

As an added bonus, readers can enter the code USWEEKLY20 for 20% off!

Purchase information: Buy it here.

I emailed the company’s owner and asked about the genesis of this item. Emily replied: “I actually grew up on that movie and when I was little, the necklace inspired by my first attempt at design. I was 12 and filled a mesh bag that I put potpourri, said it was Tanis root like in Rosemary’s Baby, and gave it to my mom. This is a more glam and grown-up version!” This company has celebrity fans ranging from MTV’s Alexa Chung to Vanessa Hudgens. The working locket can fit two tiny circular photos.

I love this necklace!

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HSN rocks. I guess you all knew that already. I mean, seriously. This $70 Noir Enamel and Crystal “Double Panther” necklace makes me completely insane.

If you get the same reaction, then hurry! They posted that there are only a few left! (I need to order mine right away, too!)

Anything animal works at all times in fashion. I love the gold chain mixed with the enamel twin black panthers. It’s like dinner and a show. You need nothing else except a great top or dress, a good blazer, a glass of wine and a hot date.

Or, you can go really wild and layer this over another necklace — and you’ll look very next season. This layering trend — contrasting chains and necklaces, one on top of the other — has been huge on the spring 2010 runways.

PRODUCT DETAILS
Two black enamel panthers meet at a circle link in the center of this necklace. Each “panther” glistens with flush-set, round faceted green crystal “eyes.” A stripe of pavé-set, round clear crystals down the “faces” of the creatures infuses a superior sparkle into the exotic piece. Interlocking curb links complete the necklace with a bold sophistication.

- Measures approximately 19-3/4″L x 1/2″W
- Senora clasp
- Polished goldtone
- Made in China

Buy it here.

The Latest From London

Some arena-playing rock bands travel less than young London’s designers. Those blessed by the British Fashion Council as part of the roving London Showrooms coterie have been on a whistle-stop world tour of late, hitting Paris, Hong Kong, L.A., and now, finally, New York, where they set up shop this morning to show their Spring wares to U.S.-based editors and buyers. To judge from the group assembled—including James Long, Thomas Tait, J.W. Anderson, Holly Fulton, Louise Gray, Marios Schwab, and milliner Nasir Mazhar—the journey may have tired them, but it didn’t dampen their enthusiasm. Almost every designer queried revealed he or she had picked up international stockists along the way; among the city’s reigning favorites, Long and Anderson drew the most attention, but even the youngest in the crowd can now boast increased U.S. visibility. Central Saint Martins grad Simone Rocha, who showed her first solo outing this Spring after a few seasons under the umbrella of Fashion East, now sells her vintage-lace dresses, fluoro tulle sheer layering skirts, and plastic raincoats at Opening Ceremony. Craig Lawrence, a 2011 NEWGEN winner who showed loose-weave knits and cropped, elasticized jumpers, is at several Henry Beguelin locations. Interested buyers were swarming, suggesting more reach is at hand for many present.

New categories and techniques were on display, too. Jeweler and sculptor Jordan Askill introduced pieces with ethical amethyst, sourced from a mine in Zambia, which he worked into silver pieces with his trademark swallows (below left). (A giant swallow cuff, which opened to reveal a hidden compartment, blurred the line between his two pursuits.) Also in the new collection were his first fine-jewelry pieces, with tiny diamonds surrounding a faceted, hand-carved swallow pendant. Holly Fulton had begun working with mother-of-pearl for accessories and real seashells for statement-making jackets; the trick, she confided, is finding shells of uniform shape. Tait, whose finely wrought, voluminous pieces suggest Couture shapes, had a surprising new footwear collaboration: a set of crisscrossed trainers he designed with Nike. (He was wearing a pair himself, as was a model; he had no plans to produce them, he revealed, but persistent interest on the part of buyers may change all that.) And Sibling’s Cozette McCreery was on hand to show off her knitwear label’s first official women’s line, Sister by Sibling. Women had been ordering small men’s sizes for so long, she said, that she and her co-designers, Sid Bryan and Joe Bates, decided finally to cut and knit for them. They were cropped neon and sequin leopard tops (left) and two complementary, sweatshirt-style sweaters emblazoned with the words LOVE and HATE. They’d sold, she said, about evenly, though she expected more interest in LOVE. Call it a knitted insight into the human race.
—Matthew Schneier

Photos: Courtesy of Sibling; Courtesy of Jordan Askill

Letter From Japan Tokyo Fashion Week Rises

Photos: Courtesy of Tokyo Fashion Week

—Susie Lau

Style Bubble’s Susie Lau reports from Tokyo’s resurgent fashion week.

The words “power” and “positivity” were echoed over and over again at Tokyo fashion week (formerly known as Japan fashion week), which concluded over the weekend. Originally scheduled for March, the week had been canceled following the earthquake and tsunami; the reenergized presentations had a newly refreshed and reorganized schedule, and a new sponsor, too—Mercedes-Benz, which also funds fashion weeks in New York, Miami, Berlin, Stockholm, and more. One particular upshot to the new infusion of capital: more new talent in a usually closed-off week. “It doesn’t mean we should be more commercial,” explained Hirofumi Kurino, co-founder of Japanese retail giant United Arrows and advisor on the week’s committee. “It means we can catch more eyes from all around the world.”

The week made it clear that the label “Made in Japan” can be richly diverse. On one hand, tradition-abiding labels like Matohu take purist Japanese ideals of beauty and apply them to serene clothes. On the other, designers like Yoshio Kubo show an appetite for original fabrics, and his Native American patterns layered up with shredded tweeds made for an accomplished menswear collection that would stand up in Paris or Milan.

There was a newfound buzz in the week with younger generation of Tokyoite designers like Shueh Jen-Fang of Jenny Fax, who showed warped schoolgirl uniforms and memories of Twin Peaks. Christian Dada drew an edgier crowd with an apocalyptic vision of black gowns complete with animal skulls and cages made of branches (above).

Among labels popular in Japan—and destined, perhaps, for greater global presence—Anrealage stood out. Designer Kunihiko Morinaga’s collection of molded forms, hardened pleats, and raised detailing created by heat-fused polyester was a standout. And while most of Tokyo fashion week bucked the mainstream Spring 2012 trends, brands like G.V.G.V. (above left) and Plumpynuts (above right)—the city has a penchant for oddball names—showed collections in line with the pastel and print-heavy season we’re in for.

The willingness to embrace a younger generation was best summed up on the final day, when Yuichi Yoshi of cult boutique The Contemporary Fix took over, with his bevy of street wear-infused labels, which had the young things of Tokyo lining up waiting patiently to see their shows (the public were able to purchase tickets with proceeds going to the tsunami/earthquake aid fund). The disasters were still very present to the attendees and presenters alike. Mastermind’s return to the catwalk showed nothing of the unexpected—once you’ve seen one skull-print tee, you’ve seen them all—but pepped up the crowd with an appropriate J-Pop performance expressing sentiments similar to the charity T-shirts on sale: “All for One, One for All.”

The all-for-one feeling continues when Fashion’s Night Out comes to Tokyo on November 4. In addition to gathering locals, the event will draw Emmanuelle Alt, Franca Sozzani, Alexandra Shulman, and Anna Wintour.

Recessionista Celeb Look for Less - UsMagazine.com

We are huge fans of wrap dresses around these parts. One look at these dresses — the printed one on the left in particular — and we got all hot and bothered. The price tag? $15! Susie Rose’s design resembles a cute little number that Maggie Grace, Gabrielle Union and Miley Cyrus recently wore. It’s the perfect summer dress and at such a perfect price, you can grab two!

Steal more star looks for less! Purchase info: 323-724-8668